flurocarbon - "the geeks don't want no freaks"

[jbdba01]

Follwing up on this thread, and "being a bear of little mind" I figured I would actually see what the difference is in flurocarbon under my totally unscientific, unsactioned, nonprofessional study and yes I have no life.

These were the players (it's all I had in my garage/tackle box and figured was useful).

The setup was simple :

My daughter's recently vacated aquarium used for her hamster (rest in peace Tiny Tim Teabow)
Lines weighted by diff color jig heads for a legend
Canon Pro1 - some macro lens some not
Indoor lighting
Two backgrounds - yellowish and blue

I'm not making any claims just showing the photos. Draw your own conclusions.

In some photos you'll have to discount for the bubbles on the lines and the depth of field on the macro lens - it's a decent lens. In some cases 1/4" can make a huge difference in focus.

Inshore leader
ohero 20#
seaguar 20#
seaguar 30# - I messed up the photo and put the jig on top of the decal, but that's what it is

Tapon leader
ohero 50#
Berkley 50#
Ande monofilament 40#

Legend


In the aquarium - single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big white Ande 40#

Images

single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big white Ande 40#




single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#


single white ohereo 20#, red seagaur 20#, yellow seaguar 30#, double white ohereo 50#, grey berkely vanish 50#, big whiteAnde 40#

[Todd]

I wish I had that much time on my hands.

[GILs_GONE_WILD]

I wish I had that much time on my hands.

X2

[TRKpoker]

did you test fresh or salt water...i just assumed it was fresh but i think it might just matter....takes alot of salt to make proper salt water density.

[jbdba01]

did you test fresh or salt water...i just assumed it was fresh but i think it might just matter....takes alot of salt to make proper salt water density.

Tap water only.

[jbdba01]

I wish I had that much time on my hands.

X2

Yeah...me too. Oh wait I do have that time - especially around 3/4 am.

Come to the darkside and you too can be a DBA.

[Rik]

Two things.

Tarpon leader at 50 is on the light end if you want to get them to the boat.

You need to use a 'fish eye' lens if you want to see how a fish sees it.

[BearsFan]

Best thing about flurocarbon.... (especially in the 60# and up category)


You can straighten it by hand, try that with 60# mono (or 80 for that matter).

[CooKnFish]

Two things.

Tarpon leader at 50 is on the light end if you want to get them to the boat.

You need to use a 'fish eye' lens if you want to see how a fish sees it.

And even then you need to put it in grey scale cause most fish don't see color.

[jbdba01]

Two things.

Tarpon leader at 50 is on the light end if you want to get them to the boat.

You need to use a 'fish eye' lens if you want to see how a fish sees it.

And even then you need to put it in grey scale cause most fish don't see color.

Way back in the 90's I used 40# with J hooks; it took a bit longer than I want to get them to the stinkpot (especially solo) so I bumped up to 60. Using 60# in 4 trips last year I had 3 fish on - none made it to the boat. 1 shook it, 1 snapped the braid (it rubbed on a piling), one rubbed the leader on something (my error I letting the fish get to the pass - I should have pushed the fish out to open water). So this year I'm bumping down and going for more strikes. I would rather be on than not. If I lose a bunch on leader failure, I'll bump up.

Mark - interesting that you bring up B&W. Makes you wonder who all the color is made for then - the fish or us. Best I can do is digital. It does change the game. That 30# really pops now.

[BearsFan]

Why would it take you longer with 40 compared to 60?

[jbdba01]

Why would it take you longer with 40 compared to 60?

Less drag, less pressure on the fish.

[BearsFan]

You must really have that drag cranked down.

Are you using spinning gear? I would worry about blowing up gear if you are going to fight a fish harder with 60 than you would with 40.

60 is for abrasion resistance not pulling power.

[jbdba01]

You must really have that drag cranked down.

Are you using spinning gear? I would worry about blowing up gear if you are going to fight a fish harder with 60 than you would with 40.

60 is for abrasion resistance not pulling power.

Spinning gear...I can't do conventional. Haven't blown up any gear (yet) - after the initial run I set the drag to about 9lbs. (about 7 more clicks than I start with; usually I do increments of 3-4)

In my opinion I wasn't putting enough pressure via drag and rod direction - hence the longer fights. The < 100# fish I can get in relatively quickly (< 40 min); the big boys (say > 130#) I just haven't figured out how to get them in < 45 min. Lots of people on this forum say it's doable, lots of people not on this forum say it's not doable. Dunno - I've not been able to do it.

Weird part is I have this fancy Cabo 50 on a Teramar XFST XHVY - max drag 26 lbs (yikes!), and I throw out a second line on a Craiglist used Baitrunner 4500 on a Walmart Ande rod...I'm talking I have about $70 invested in that rig, it friggin hooks all the damn time. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking...what are ya gonna do.

I'm more than willing to have someone school me up on this, but it's what I do (school of hard knocks). Perhaps this year I'll go for a poon in a kayak, but I normally solo stink pot bridge or beach. Beach is a hell of a lot easier. You need 3 hands on the bridge - one for the throttle, one for the steering, and one to hold the rod. It's a goat rodeo until you get in open water.

If any of the experts want to show me how and go with me, pm me. Lets define expert as > 15 poon to the boat most in < 45 min. I have about 15-20 to the boat and it seems I'm doing it wrong. The big boys are always greater than 60 minutes for me...but I repeat myself.

Reality is last year I just stunk it up.

[Rik]

The < 100# fish I can get in relatively quickly (< 40 min); the big boys (say > 130#) I just haven't figured out how to get them in < 45 min. Lots of people on this forum say it's doable, lots of people not on this forum say it's not doable. Dunno - I've not been able to do it.

Sorry bud but 40 min is not relatively quickly. 30 mins is almost too long. Simply put, you never take a break. You beat yourself up as much as you beat up the fish. You take a breather and the fish takes a breather. If you were in a boxing match, would you take a break?

[jbdba01]

The < 100# fish I can get in relatively quickly (< 40 min); the big boys (say > 130#) I just haven't figured out how to get them in < 45 min. Lots of people on this forum say it's doable, lots of people not on this forum say it's not doable. Dunno - I've not been able to do it.

Sorry bud but 40 min is not relatively quickly. 30 mins is almost too long. Simply put, you never take a break. You beat yourself up as much as you beat up the fish. You take a breather and the fish takes a breather. If you were in a boxing match, would you take a break?

Fair enough...let's see how I do this year. I just think until I figure out what I'm doing wrong I'm doomed to repeat the cycle. I don't think effort is the issue - I think my technique/set up is off.