Let me know your thoughts. My intent is to have the fly ride hook down and jig off the bottom. The slight blue additions are to give a fish the opportunity to mistake for a small blue crab as well as the creature shrimp/crustacean. I would imagine the next tie needs to have a weed guard.
Mullet Pattern.
This can get addictive. I think that this tying thing will get in the way of my fishing time.
Brian
must share
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Re: must share
Do you mean hook up? If you are going to be bouncing it off of the bottom in anything other than sand, I think it is a must to have it ride point up.BBabcock wrote:My intent is to have the fly ride hook down and jig off the bottom.
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Re: must share
I was wondering the same thing.ChrisR wrote:Do you mean hook up? If you are going to be bouncing it off of the bottom in anything other than sand, I think it is a must to have it ride point up.BBabcock wrote:My intent is to have the fly ride hook down and jig off the bottom.
You know what La Quinta means in English? Behind Dennys. MarkM
I've been experimenting with hook-point-up designs lately, and it turns out it's not quite as simple as putting the eyes on the backside of the shank. Most of the "bulk" of the material also needs to be opposite the eyes, tied to the underside of the shank. Unless the balance is just right, the hook will still ride hook-point-down (which is rather frustrating). Another solution is to use heavier eyes, but that has a negative affect on both casting and the action of the fly in the water. That's why, from now on, I'm tying all my Kwans and Toads with the material on the underside of the shank.
Everyone is entitled to my opinion
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Interesting. I had considered the materials having a bearing, but didn't think it would make a big difference. I have tied toads and kwans both ways, and have found that both ride point up regardless of material. I suppose it could also have to do with hook sizes. I know that you tie with larger hooks than I typically do.
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you are a quick study Evan...I have read your post and you remind me of myself when I got going...you are on the right track...sorry, not hyjacking the thread...I also have noticed there are many factors to get the hook to ride inverted or not...DB eye placement is just part of it...hook style is really the secret...I also noticed that all flys shown have rather large wire...thin wire hooks are far superior in penetration if that is an issue...keep up the tying BBabcock...I like the blue colorEvan wrote:I've been experimenting with hook-point-up designs lately, and it turns out it's not quite as simple as putting the eyes on the backside of the shank. Most of the "bulk" of the material also needs to be opposite the eyes, tied to the underside of the shank. Unless the balance is just right, the hook will still ride hook-point-down (which is rather frustrating). Another solution is to use heavier eyes, but that has a negative affect on both casting and the action of the fly in the water. That's why, from now on, I'm tying all my Kwans and Toads with the material on the underside of the shank.
Gen 9:2 "And the fear of you and the dread of you shall be upon all the fishes of the sea; into your hand are they delivered." .... even God likes Dreads....
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Thanks for the input. It is a hard balance to figure out. When tying flies I am learning that what looks good on the vise is not always what will look good under water.
I tend to want to use more material than needed. For example, my 6 year old son wanted to try his hand at the game and so I let him partipate in the basic wraps and then he directed me in the thread color, hook, tail, collar, eyes ect. His "simple" design will surely be effective. An old classic.
I tend to want to use more material than needed. For example, my 6 year old son wanted to try his hand at the game and so I let him partipate in the basic wraps and then he directed me in the thread color, hook, tail, collar, eyes ect. His "simple" design will surely be effective. An old classic.